Day 21
A lot was riding on Amarillo. Prior to our arrival we had gone, more or less, 0 for 3 in Texas, and Amarillo was our last stop in the state and the last chance for Texas to redeem itself. This worried me from the instant we pulled into town. Why? Because downtown Amarillo looks like this on a busy Thursday evening:
The place was a ghost town. Even worse, you know what else was a ghost town? The venue we were supposed to play at. No one was there. The people putting on the show were nowhere in sight. By now this was almost expected. It was the eighth inning, Texas was pitching a no hitter, and didn’t look like it would be lobbing anything our way anytime soon. We called time out, stepped out of the batter’s box, postponing the inevitable, and got some Mexican food.
Texas is the cornerstone of American gluttony and the restaurant we found had no intention of breaking stride with this longstanding tradition. In true Texan fashion the Mexican place we went to, Acapulco (coincidentally one of the only inhabited buildings downtown) also served hamburgers, hamburgers that looked like this:
An entire pound of ground beef on a nine-inch bun. I can barely eat a pizza that size, let alone an entire hamburger. Jason and Freddy wisely split it.
Cheers.
As a recent convert to vegetarianism, I am still in that honeymoon stage where I hypocritically look down on people eating food I thoroughly enjoyed in very recent history. This new arrogance gained even more momentum during this meal because it was combined with my already strongly negative views about American gluttony. With both in full force, I sat back, ate my bean and rice burrito, and smugly passed judgment on the giant burger, my pretension taking the opportunity to overindulge in its own little feast of self-righteousness.
I sat perched upon my high horse until dinner ended, when I was then knocked back to the ground when we returned to check on the venue. It was still empty. Two hours after we were supposed to load in. Unable to even get in touch with the promoter, we faced the fact that we would not be playing a show that night. We had stood and faced Amarillo, swung, and missed horribly. Texas shut us out.
Beaten down, we piled back into the van and decided to leave where we obviously weren’t welcome, get out of Texas and head towards Albuquerque, where we had friends, as soon as possible. After filling up our gas tank we opted to swing by the venue one last time just to check to see if someone had finally shown up before we left for good. Like Lot’s wife we needed one last glance when we should have just put our head’s down and left. For this we were punished. Our van’s electrical circuits were turned to salt; specifically the trailer lights, the van’s rear lights, and our dash lights. We’ve lost these before due to blown fuses, but a quick check of the fuse box revealed that fuses weren’t the culprit this time. The problem lay somewhere deep in the vast inner workings of the van’s maze of electrical wires. Forced to choose between getting a hotel in a town that obviously hated us and possibly getting pulled over on our way out of town, we threw our hazards on, jumped on I-40 and got the hell out of Texas.
A crescent moon, hidden above the roof of the van, sat high in the sky and turned the occasional low tabletop hill, an import from further west, into a silhouetted sneak preview of landscapes to come. Cory looked out at the darkened landscape longingly. It being his first time this far passed the Mississippi, missing this drastically unprecedented scenery was almost enough to make us pull over and sleep, postponing our drive until the sun could shine light onto the land around and on the disappointment that would have followed, as he would have inevitably learned that, despite what the deceptive shadows around alluded to, there’s really no difference between western Oklahoma and eastern New Mexico, and what is new is nothing that we won’t see in abundance as we get closer to Arizona.
Inside the van, with the dash lights no longer working, the cd player was an island of soft blue and red light, interrupted only by the occasional cell phone display or Ipod. The latter coming alive after The Shins record ended then quickly fading away into hibernation once The Pixies we settled on. Garrett sat illuminated by his computer screen, occasionally referencing his new GPS program to give Jason updates about speed (no dash lights means no backlight speedometer) and location. I sat with my headphones on and listened to a “This American Life” podcast, growing increasingly envious of the intellectual, writing life I imagined Ira Glass lived, rubbing shoulders with successful, talented authors all the while tying together their stories with his own original, simple, profundity. I wanted that. I want that. People, after all, go to his shows.
Freddy missed all of this, preferring the excitement his subconscious could project onto his closed eyelids to the repeating darkness punctuated by farmhouse lights that seemed to extend for infinity outside our van’s windows. All the while, the hazard lights turned on, off, then on again each second, revealing in each moment of their brief repose that our lights were not getting the whole of the message sent by the switch on the dash. The message telling them to turn on and stay on was getting lost somewhere along the way, and so we settled with the emergency lights and limped three hundred miles west. Beaten and bruised by Texas, but not defeated. This, after all, is still much better than working.
Brett














